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I20050218-1600 It seems that GTK+ spends too much time drawing the background colour in calls to gdk_draw_layout_with_colors(). The fix is to simply do the background fill yourself using gdk_draw_rectangle() before drawing the layout. I filed this bug upstream: http://bugzilla.gnome.org/show_bug.cgi?id=167917 The patch attached speeds up the performance tests for me, but it requires testing.
Created attachment 18126 [details] Patch
Are we incorporating this patch?
As it turns out, this was mainly due to a GTK+ bug which is now fixed. Given that the buggy version is not shipped in any current distributions, and because the fix is awkward, I am closing this as WONTFIX for now.